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Lima, Peru: tips for expats and travelers

Lima is a city that many travelers overlook in Latin America. While it may not be as picturesque as Rio or have the almost European feel of Buenos Aires, Lima has been slowly turning up on more tourists’ radar. If this is your first time visiting South America, a veteran expat, or a digital nomad looking for a new place to set up a store, Lima may be the place you are looking for.

Why Lima?

For most tourists, Lima serves as a springboard to popular tourist spots like Machu Picchu, the Amazon rainforests, or Lake Titicaca. What the tourist crowds miss is that Lima is a vibrant city of 10 million with endless options for nightlife, culture, history, and gastronomy. It will take a stay of at least two months to get a real idea of ​​what this city has to offer.

Idiom

Obviously, Spanish is the most widely spoken language in Lima. English is not widely understood, except in restaurants or places specifically intended for tourists. However, Peruvians are generally accommodating to foreigners who make an effort to learn a few words and knowing some basic Spanish will go a long way.

The good news is that Peruvian Spanish is spoken very clearly and slowly compared to other Spanish-speaking countries. For this reason, Peru is considered one of the best places in the world to learn Spanish. If you are still learning, you will find that the local dialect is easy to understand.

Where to stay

Lima is enormous, and like many large cities in Latin America, you will see extreme income disparities depending on which city district you are in. Generally speaking, districts on or adjacent to the coast, such as Miraflores or San Isidro, will be more exclusive with less crime, while those in the interior will be more dangerous (avoid the Surquillo district!). Miraflores is without a doubt the best neighborhood to stay for foreigners, especially if you cannot speak Spanish. In terms of logistics, you’ll be within easy reach of the beach, shopping and nightlife options, and tour buses that can take you to nearby attractions. Other good options would be Santiago de Surco, a rich suburban community, or the artsy bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. However, if you are new to Peru or Latin America in general, do yourself a big favor and stick with Miraflores.

Short-term rentals can be found on Airbnb, starting at around $ 50 per night. Flipkey.com tends to have lower prices, but fewer options. Reserve a spot before your trip for minimal headaches. You can also find MUCH cheaper options on craigslist or local apartment listings. Don’t be afraid to negotiate a lower rate with the landlord. If you haven’t booked a room in advance, you can try staying at a nearby hostel while you do your research. The Kokopelli Backpacker Hostel on Berlin Street is recommended for those looking for a balance between liveliness and peace and quiet.

Attractions in Lima

Take one of the Mirabus day tours in Lima. You’ll get a beautiful view of the Miraflores and San Isidro neighborhoods, as well as downtown historic landmarks like the Plaza de Armas and notable colonial-era buildings, churches, and museums. Enjoy the incredible view of the coastline along the Malecón and visit the Larcomar, a commercial center with shops, restaurants, nightclubs and even a cinema built on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Lima’s only debatable weakness is its beaches. With the possible exception of the Barranco neighborhood, Lima is not known for having the most beautiful beaches in the world. While they look beautiful when viewed from above, most are quite rocky with big waves. The water can be surprisingly cold too – the ocean currents that make Lima’s climate mild for its latitude also make the water quite crisp. If surfing is your thing, the beaches of Lima can be a great option. If you prefer swimming, some of the nearby beaches mentioned below are a better option.

Near Lima

Take a look at the spectacular remains of Caral, approximately 2.5 hours outside of Lima and at 5,000 years old, the oldest ruins in America. If the beach is your thing, check out Punta Hermosa, the Asia district (popular with Peruvians on summer vacations) or the laid-back town of Paracas about 3.5 hours away by bus, where you can sunbathe and see the sights. famous Ballestas Islands (commonly known as “the poor man’s Galapagos”). On the outskirts of Lima is the city of Callao, where you can visit the Real Felipe Fortress, the BAP Abato, a decommissioned Peruvian Navy submarine that is now a museum. Be sure to try an incredible pork rind sandwich at the Callao Market. Callao is safe during the day, but it can be dangerous at night, so it is recommended to return to Lima before dark.

Food

Peruvian cuisine is truly world class. There are many excellent restaurants geared towards tourists that serve amazing food. While you won’t be dissatisfied, you will still pay about 3 times the normal price. On the famous Calle Las Pizzas (Pizza Street) you will find numerous rather mediocre pizza options at equally exorbitant rates. Instead, try some of the smaller places where the locals eat on the side streets next to Kennedy Park. You can get a hearty three-course meal of authentic Peruvian food for as little as 10 soles (about $ 3 at the time of this writing). Ceviche, of course, should not be missed and cuy (guinea pig) is an intriguing dish unique to this country, but is usually quite expensive (50-75 soles).

Fri de Nuit

This is an area where Lima really shines. The best nightlife in the city is concentrated in the districts of Miraflores and Barranco. Miraflores is a bit more exclusive, with most of the options concentrated in the vicinity of Kennedy Park. Calle las Pizzas has most of the discos and pubs aimed at foreigners. The most popular spots on Pizza Street are The Old Pub (an English-style pub popular with expats), Sabor Peruano, a nightclub that welcomes a mixed crowd of locals and backpackers 7 days a week. Sabor Peruano mainly plays EDM and around midnight will switch to reggaeton and salsa. There’s also the much larger Sabor Perano VIP, which has a similar vibe but only draws a good crowd on the weekends. A few blocks away, in the Larcomar shopping center, is Gotica, a great nightclub popular among well-off Peruvians. Saturday night is the best night to visit. On Berlin Street is Houlihan’s Irish Bar, a very popular place for expats who play sports around the world and is the only bar in the city that serves Guinness.

The other main option for nightlife is Barranco, about 15 minutes from Miraflores by taxi. Barranco, especially at night, is a bit more rugged around the edges of Miraflores, but you won’t find a problem here unless you’re looking for it. Be sure to visit Picas, a large and very popular nightclub just below the famous Bridge of Sighs. Disco Help draws a younger crowd, and Hypnosis and Bierhaus just off the main square are popular spots too. Barranco also has the only brewery in the city, the Barranco Brewing Company.

By far the coolest place in Barranco and possibly in all of Lima is Ayahuasca. While they don’t serve the psychedelic drink of the same name, they do offer multiple bars within a large colonial-style mansion and a massive outdoor patio in the back. Rather than a high-energy nightclub, Ayahuasca has a more laid-back lounge vibe. Each room has a slightly different atmosphere and the food is exceptional. Whether you’re on the prowl, meeting friends, or looking for a quiet place for a date, Ayahuasca is not to be missed.

Health

The fact is that Peru is a developing country, and of all its major cities, Lima is truly the only place in the country that offers top-notch medical care. The hospitals here are clean and provide excellent, modern healthcare services, for which you can expect to pay only a fraction of what you would say in the United States. Food poisoning is fairly common among first-time visitors, but it is easily avoided. Choose a clean and reputable restaurant and if your goal is cheap food, it is actually recommended that you choose restaurants that are busier; the ingredients will be fresher as they are being consumed faster. Be especially careful with “chifa” (Peruvian Chinese food) no matter how many people recommend it. There are pharmacies on almost every block for basic health needs.

Taxis

Keep in mind that despite how exclusive and sophisticated parts of Lima may seem, Peru as a whole is still a poor country and as a foreigner some people here, especially taxi drivers, will try to take advantage of you. This is common in many developing countries and is by no means unique to Peru, and with a little research, it can be easily avoided.

NEVER get in a cab and tell the driver where you want to go, or your wallet will regret it later. Always tell the driver where you want to go and agree on the price before you get on. The first price the driver gives you is usually about double what the locals pay, so counter half that amount and always be willing to drive away – there are thousands of other taxis in Lima and taxis will generally lower the price if do this. Taxis will charge more on Friday and Saturday nights. For example, the trip between Miraflores and Barranco is normally 5-8 soles. On a Saturday, you may have to settle for paying from 8 to 10. Getting to and from the airport to Miraflores or the surrounding districts should cost around 40-50 soles.

Is Lima right for you?

The parts of Lima recommended here combine the incredible cuisine, culture and history of South America with many First World comforts and conveniences. If you are looking for a South American city to establish as a base of operations, Lima is hard to go wrong.

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