If you play tournaments, either sit and go or regular multi-table

tournaments of any kind, online or offline, you should be aware

what your “X Factor” is and what to do about it.

So what is this X Factor? It is an abbreviated name for your

stack ratio. OK, that really clears things up, doesn’t it?

Here is a simple equation to calculate your X Factor:

X = STACK SIZE / STARTING POT

where, STACKSIZE is the size of your current stack and INITIALPOT is the

size of the pot at the beginning of the hand, after all the blinds are up and before

they are in the pot

For example, let’s say the blinds are 100/200 with an ante of 25, and

there are 8 players. That’s a total pot of 500 (100 + 200 + 200).

If your stack size is 5000, then your X value is 10 (5000 / 500).

If your stack size is 3000, X = 6, then stack size 1000, X = 2, etc.

When calculating your X, just use estimates (don’t worry about the

fractional accuracy). For example, the stack size of 2800 is “5 to 6”.

So why does this X factor matter? Basically, X represents how many

“rounds” we have left against the blinds and antes. spin around

be a general rule to make some important useful

tournament decisions. Here is the general guide that X provides me:

X greater than 20

At this point we’re in easy lane, in great shape and we can hold out,

take some calculated risks, get aggressive when we have a good

hand, good position or good option to bluff. We can afford to take

more chances, play a little looser when appropriate, mix up our game.

X from 15 to 20

At this point, we are in good shape, we can expect better hands,

better bluffing opportunities and run some good cheat plays. However,

we should try to avoid playing more than 5 X in any hand, to

stay above an X of 10 (and avoid putting ourselves at undue risk).

X from 8 to 14

At this point we should be tweaking a bit, protecting our stack

(and X), waiting for a good hand or bluff opportunity to present itself.

x less than 8

At this point, the size of our stack relative to the blinds is becoming critical.

When our X reaches a value of 5 to 7, it’s time to switch to “push/fold”

(Described below).

So we should be constantly tracking our X value, and taking the X

the value of our opponents into consideration as we keep track of our situation

in the game (to better predict opponents, as well as to guide our

own game).

The rules I present above are how I play, given my solid

to the tight/aggressive style (feel free to experiment and propose

your own X Factor rules, but these will put you “in the zone”).

Now when our X value drops below 8 I said we enter “push/fold”

fashion. This is what I mean by an X of 7 and under and push/fold…

Push/fold is where we do one of two things: All-in or Fold. we go

all-in to push the other players out of these pots

giving them poor pot odds and forcing them to fold or call

a showdown with us.

When I think of Push/fold mode, I treat it as

heads-up play as aggressive as possible. That’s because if I do

end up in a matchup, it will probably be against another player

who has a strong enough starting hand to call with bad pot odds

anyway (beware of weak players, they will call you at any moment).

With an X of 5 to 7, I’ll play any hand that has an ace and

any pair that is 5 or higher.

In the lower X’s, I’ll add all the pairs and any two shapes. If I

don’t take a decent starting hand, then it’s an instant fold.

No limping, no calling, no halfway, it’s all-in

or is it a fold (there is only one exception, which I will discuss

below).

Every time the blinds go up, I immediately look at my stack size.

against the new pot size and find out where my new stack X = 10

size limit will be, and if new/before blinds put me in

risk of push/fold mode.

For example, if the blinds go up and my new X Factor is 7 or less,

I quietly begin my switch to push/fold mode.

Push/fold is basically a super strict, super aggressive extreme mode

of operation. This strategy provides the best opportunity to obtain

return to the tournament using your remaining stack and the NL

All-in hold’em moves in your favor (as long as you choose your shots

properly).

If your X value drops and you don’t go into push/fold mode,

you just end up having your stack size eroded by blinds and antes to

the point that going all-in will change the behavior of your

opposition of having a “fold unless you have a great hand” to a

“Let’s go pounce on them!” mode of operation (probably too late to

you now).

By waiting too long to enter push/fold, you have lost your No Limit

power: you cannot harm or threaten anyone with an all-in move

more… a very dangerous place to be in this game… as a

toothless shark!!

Of course, if you don’t get some decent starting hands, at some point

you will be forced to take your best shot anyway (something

that would come no matter what).

I recommend taking that photo while you still have a 4 to 5 X

and can deal some damage, and preferably when you’re later

position (dealer button or cut). This will give you the

best chance to steal the blinds.

The only exception to going into push/fold mode on an X 7 is

if I’m in the bubble (almost in the money), and other players are

in push/fold mode. Handling things a round or two (until

an X of 5, ideally), has a higher chance of entering

the money leaving the other short-stacked players to be eliminated

exit first (since they will probably be in push/fold mode as well).

If you don’t see that kind of opportunity, you’ll probably have to

take your best shot when the next big blind hits and see if

You can rebuild your position.

Of course, the X Factor is just one of many game factors that

should be noted, but provides an overview

framework that will help you better manage your tournament play.

I hope this information will be useful to you in your next tournament.

find.

Until next time, may the poker force be with you!