Santa Monica Mountains – How Do I Love You? Let me count the ways. This is less a travel report than a love letter!
After going through a divorce in my mid-40s, I joined the singles group at my church in Torrance, CA. They were into all kinds of outdoor activities and I started going with them. Many of those activities took place in the Santa Monica Mountains.
I learned to ride a mountain bike in Sullivan Canyon. This was one of my first activities there and it became one of my favorites. My first ride was up the fire road (Farmer’s Ridge?) to the old Nike Station, then over the ridge and down Sullivan Canyon. It was a favorite weekend activity with the group for years. Sullivan was always changing because of the spring rains. We also went up and down the ridge for a change, or up and down the canyon. The Whoop of Doos was another fun ride, on a ridge northeast of Sullivan, as well as Sullivan’s Ridge, over Rustic Canyon and the Backbone Trail.
At some point someone told me I could do it at night with lights – a whole new world opened up! My friend Milana and I took weekly walks on Monday nights for years. He could get past her, but he couldn’t keep her in sight on the way down. My longest drive was from Redondo Beach to Sunset Blvd. to Will Rogers State Park, up Backbone Trail, down Sullivan Trail, and back the same way. It was a solo ride, I started in the afternoon and got home after 1:00 am. My biggest scare was yet another solo ride up Sullivan Canyon, when I decided to explore a little side trail. I had new clipless pedals and was not used to them. Crossing a small ditch, I couldn’t free one foot and fell into the ditch and fractured my kidney. Another trip to the ER and a day in ICU, followed by 30 days of bed rest.
The Santa Monicas were also a favorite hiking spot. I started hiking the same trails we mountain biked, then hiked whatever trails I could find. Rustic Canyon was a favorite, as was Will Rogers State Park’s Backbone Trail. The former Nazi site in Rustic Canyon was always fun, especially the 500 steps back up to the road. All trails around Topanga State Park and up to Point Mugu, including Sandstone Peak, the highest point in Santa Monica, at a towering 3,111 feet. I started doing night hikes there with the Twilight Hikers, and then spent countless nights alone, exploring every trail I knew of, this time at night, usually without light. The glow of the city lights used to be enough to see. For years I led night hikes for our church group, for SCARABS, an adventure running club, and for about a year, I led monthly full moon hikes for a friend who worked at Backpacker magazine. I later spent more time hiking the San Gabriel Mountains, but I will never forget the Santa Monica Mountains.
When some friends said they were going rock climbing, I asked if I could go with them. We went to Stoney Point and I fell in love with rock climbing. It was the only thing keeping us from mountain biking every Saturday. The Pot Holes was one of my favorites, including the crack there. My biggest win was when I was able to climb the A-Frame, my first 5.9 climb. The Wall of Jesus and many others that I don’t remember now, but all great memories. We also climbed a few at Point Mugu and then a few trips to Big Bear, Castle Rock I think it was. One of the best things about climbing in Santa Monica was doing it with my son, Luke. He was only 14 at the time, but he was a good climber and was trusted by the group to belay, which really made me feel good.
I hadn’t run since I was in high school track, but Kathy, one of my friends, liked to run. We ran a lot at Topanga State Park, and I did my first 10K there, The Tough Topanga 10K, with Milana and others. The SCARAB crew were doing night runs to the Nike site and beyond from Mulholland Drive and I ran with them a few times. From this start, weekly races sprang up on Woodchip Path in the South Bay, and I ran a number of 10Ks and even did a half marathon. Last spring, I was the trail sweep for a friend who ran a 50K on the Backbone Trail.
Our singles group went on a few camping trips at Leo Carrillo State Park, which led to backpacking in the Grand Canyon and then hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Many of our training hikes for the local Los Angeles peaks, as well as the Whitney and Grand Canyon, were done in Rustic Canyon.
Many people who live in the Los Angeles area complain about the hectic life in the Big City, the crowds, crime and traffic. Well, the traffic caused problems getting there, but I could be in the Santa Monica mountains in an hour or less most of the time, and getting home late at night only took me about 30 minutes. It’s a whole other world, just minutes from the 405 freeway, waiting to bring relief to all who seek it.
I love you, Santa Monica Mountains!
